Jewels

The first emotion, together with surprise and awe, that one feels in front of a jewel by Akelo comes from contemplating the masterfully polished details, the very high-quantity decorations and their microscopic dimensions. What strikes you is, above all, the multitude of microscopic spheres and the intertwining of threadlike wires that envelope necklaces, earrings and bracelets, answering the call of an uncontainable imagination. It's about a mix of granules and threads made according to decorative techniques widely used in the ancient goldsmith's art, granulation and filigree. The name of the latter (fili + granum) would even suggest that the one derives from the other. What we know is that their stories progress hand in hand at least up until the rise of the Roman Empire and reach their aesthetic height under the Etruscans, around the VII-VI century B.C. Through the centuries, there have been many attempts to understand and to achieve the extraordinary complexity of this jewelry: from the masters of the XV century to Cellini and the Roman Castellani family up until modern studies and experiments. Much written material has in fact been dedicated to this subject. But while the manufacturing of golden granules and wires is now known, welding methods remain somewhat obscure. In other words, how can one "attach" thousands of miniscule elements in an imperceptible way? This is just the "mystery" that Akelo seeks to unravel: he takes every step of the complicated process, examines ancient and modern examples of granulation, reads both very ancient texts and later ones with the hope of finally discovering the original procedures. [ La Discovering the "magic potion" ] Akelo understands that using copper salts mixed with organic glue (as the most respected modern studies on the subject suggest) wasn't enough. Following the Classics' clues, he discovers the secret of a kind of "potion" composed by various ingredients thanks to which he can now solder grains, wires and foils in countless ways and decorate his pieces with a wide variety of patterns. This discovery sets him apart from all other contemporary goldsmiths who work with the above-mentioned techniques. In his works he is, in fact, able to attach both micro spheres (less than 0,07 mm in diameter) and very fine wires (equal to 0,1/0,2 mm in diameter). The result: the joints are imperceptible, and spheres and wires seem to float on the golden surface without visible soldering marks or alterations in the roundness of the shapes. Thus Akelo creates harmonious artwork in gold, characterized by delicate contrasts between filigree and granulation which lend them a refined elegance and show an exceptionally high level of artistic craftsmanship. [ A microcosm of granules and threads ] But let's look now at the artist's methods in detail. Let's start with granulation, which is a decorative goldsmith's technique which consists of welding small golden spheres called grains or granules to a background (usually made of golden foil), according to a planned design. When the grains reach microscopic dimensions - in the order of 0,1 mm in diameter - they are more properly defined as "fine dust granulation". Akelo works with twelve different sizes of granules (besides the fine dust granulation), often combining them in the same piece. With these, he makes whole silhouetted figures (silhouette technique) or he fills the background of a design or he combines them with embossing, thus defining the shapes' outlines. The same thing applies to filigree, which is obtained by welding gold wires to the support. These wires can be applied alone or interwoven in order to create the most diverse ornamental patterns. As with granulation, Akelo obtains a broad range of decorative effects with various types of filigree by utilizing wires of different sizes and shapes (twisted, interwined, braided, spooled and beaded) that are then soldered to the gold ground using his secret technique that doesn't alter their shapes, so instead of sinking and "pugging" in the gold foil, the filigree seems to hover on top of the golden surface and shines by capturing the light. From the perfect synergy between granulation and filigree come embroideries, wefts and textures of extraordinary finesse and complexity that embellish Akelo's jewelry pieces. These are not simple ancient jewel reproductions but unique pieces in which the inspiration of the past harmoniously melds with the modern creative spirit of the artist. [ Luxurious and sensual chains ] Chains are another important element of Akelo's art. All hand-made - like some sort of crochet work - they require an infinite quantity of little wire rings (attached one by one) and of soldering. Therefore hours of work mixed with patience and extreme precision are required. In this case, too, the artist can bring to life countless variations and artistic effects. But what is most striking about his chains is their sensual and luxurious texture, their sinuosity that allows them to adapt to the bodies that wear them. This is not an easy feat to accomplish because at the beginning, the links seem rigid and "unruly". Small pressures applied by the hands will mold them and give life and personality to the chain, winning over its resistance, just like a snake that wriggles and doesn't want to be caught. Akelo makes mostly "loop in loop" chains. Appearing for the first time in Mesopotamia around 3000 B.C., this was the most widespread type of chain in the ancient world until the end of the Middle Ages. The simpler version had, as a central element, a link made of wire which was first closed with soldering then bent into a bow shape and finally attached to the next one. More complex versions of the chains were obtained by inserting one or more links so to create double, triple or multiple links, while by combining simpler or double "loop in loop" type chains could make veritable golden ribbons. [ Stars from a future universe ] But it's not only about technical skill. Akelo's jewelry pieces - all one-of-a-kind pieces - also reveal a profound inspiration that includes both the natural world and a spiritual dimension and the constant quest for the perfect harmony between man and the world that surrounds him. First of all, these jewels are not identified simply by a "title" but by the "name" of a star which, joined with all the other stars, forms a kind of a personal firmament that is able to evoke the phases of a truly unique creative career. In addition, the jewelry collection of the artist boasts a wide gallery of myths, legends and symbols derived from an ancestral repertoire, which were filtered and decoded through an esoteric language infused with the knowledge of alchemy, history and philosophy. Even the gold, which every piece is made of, has a specific shade that is the result of the personal alloy developed by the artist which is external to the standards of modern jewelry and is just slightly under 22 kt. This shade is so luminous that when a ray of sunlight hits a piece of his jewelry, it seems to emanate its very own light as if it were an integral part of nature itself. Finally, archeological objects (assembled in an original fashion) such as enamels, glasses and stones, contribute to defining Akelo's works. Precious or semi-precious, of various colors and consistencies, almost always "cabochon" cut, and sometimes very ancient, they are chosen not for their actual value but mainly for their aesthetic qualities and chromatic and design effects. This is coherent with an artist distinguished by his complete disinterest in market dynamics. In sum, real works of art like Akelo's jewels appear only at selected times in history and seem to participate in the endless evolution of humanity and civilization, almost like precious pieces of a mosaic where present, past, and future follow one another in a fluid and linear way. If these jewels, on one hand, guard values and knowledge of antiquity, on the other they assume a contemporary identity that is the expression of the artist as a visionary. In short, he taps into the past in order to create his own present in a constant projection towards the absolute. The Work of Akelo seems "touched" by the divine, perhaps created to make this world a better one.